Thursday, 26 February 2009, 9:00PM on ITV1

In the second part of his journey Billy moves into bleaker and tougher terrain as he heads north to Baffin Island.

He meets the Inuit communities that live there to find out what it’s like to live on the edge of the world. He samples their food, gets a seal-skin suit made and learns about the local trades and hobbies.

He takes in jaw-dropping scenery as he flies by helicopter into a national park in the Arctic Circle and he goes on a stomach-churning seal hunt with an Inuit family.

His first stop is Iqaluit, an old whaling town which is one of a handful of towns on Baffin Island only accessible by boat and air as none have roads leading to them. There he meets Nicole Pauze a local taxi driver who shows him The Road to Nowhere and teaches him how to give a traditional ‘Eskimo Kiss’.

The area has no snow at the time of year Billy is there and he tells the programme the barren land and the pre-fab, shed-like homes make the town feel temporary. He visits the local museum where a film recorded when the inhabitants of Iqaluit lived a traditional lifestyle plays, showing Inuits in seal-skin suits using dog sleds. He also meets Tookie Pootoogook who watches the film every week because his deceased relations are in it.

Billy says: “I’ve just come out of the museum and it’s the saddest thing because they look so happy. They look so complete and their clothes look right, they look right. They look happy with their kids, happy is the word. They know where they are, and they’re in total control over it.

“And it’s funny when you come out and you see, and you see this, they don’t seem to be in control of this. Because I don’t know what to make of this, this isn’t home sweet home to me. Those sheds and these buildings that look as if they’ve arrived in a parcel…there’s something not right about it. But just seeing them has moved me deeply, especially that wee man Tookie. His life was something else, and I was just told a minute ago that he lives at the Salvation Army here and it’s made a wee hole in my heart.”

Before leaving Iqaluit Billy eats a caribou burger with Rebecca Veevee, an Inuit woman who has her own television show in which she encourages people to stick to traditional food instead of junk food. And Billy is reminded of his own people’s traditions when he meets local accordion player, Simeonie Keenainak, who learned Scottish music from the whalers when he was a little boy.

Billy then makes a two day trek into one of the most unspoilt and unexplored places in the world – the Aiyuittuq National Park in the Arctic Circle carved out in the Ice Age two million years ago. Billy fords the glacial rivers caused by global warming before camping overnight. By helicopter he’s taken even further into the park’s wilderness and dropped on the glacier itself which he can actually hear melting beneath his feet.

He says: “I never heard a glacier melt before – what a jolly noise. It’s supposed to be frightening when you hear all this stuff about global warming, you’re supposed to be kind of scared, but I think I’m too stupid to be scared, I get carried away with the beauty of it, the grandeur of the thing. I don’t remember being in a more extraordinary place. It’s like being on another planet. I’ve never seen anything remotely like this in my life.”

Next Billy flies into Iqloolik, a town deep inside the Arctic Circle with temperatures as low as minus 36 degrees in winter, where he meets Rhoda Kunuk and Mary Taukie who perform Inuit throat singing for him and Damian Tulugarjuk and Silas Qulaut who show him some Inuit games such as high-kicking and mouth pulling.

He gets a seal-skin suit made by Atuat Akkitirq an Inuit woman who measures his feet using her kitchen tiles and uses her teeth to soften the skin for the suit.

And he meets tribal elder Abraham Ulayuruluf born in an igloo 70 years ago who now has cable TV and double glazing. It’s his job in the community to preserve the language, teach others about the history of the town and to pass on hunting skills.

On the last leg of his journey through Baffin Island Billy visits Pond Inlet which is his final stop-off before he journeys through the Northwest Passage. At Pond Inlet he joins Inuit couple David Suqslak and his wife Maggie Qanguq and their children; baby May and sons Curtis and Eric, on a family outing at the heart of their culture – a seal hunt.

The family take him on a boat among the icebergs and through the wilderness to a piece of land in the middle of nowhere where they set up camp for the night. Billy chats to Eric who, at just five-years-old, has already hunted a seal with his father. The next day the family and Billy venture out in the boat again and shoot a seal which they take back to camp and skin before eating it raw.

Billy tells the programme he feels guilty. He says: “I thought I had changed since I came here, I haven’t. I’m still a big bleeding heart hippy liberal. I thought I’d become all Inuit and used to it and I understand, well I don’t understand at all. I don’t understand it in the bloody least. I get it, of course I do, and I am all for it, I am all for them being allowed to kill their quota of animals and carry on as they have done for centuries, and even as we speak it’s being eaten behind me and being enjoyed immensely, raw; its eyes are being eaten, its red bits and white bits.

“It really brought it home to me what the Inuit are and what I am – we’re completely foreign to each other and I love their foreignness and I love them, I thought I was getting close, no I’m not.

“It was a real reminder of how the world actually works. Some people shoot things and some people go to the butchers and buy things. I’m the guy who goes to the butchers and they’re the people who shoot stuff – I think it’s as simple as that.”

As he leaves the island behind, Billy says: “The overwhelming memory I have of Baffin Island is the people, the kindest nicest people I’ve come across in a long, long time and there is one who virtually haunts me. He’s a little man I met in a museum in Iqaluit and he goes in every week to watch this rerun of a film. His grandfather is in it, his grandfather’s brother, his uncle is in it and his whole world has radically changed, it’s gone from the dog sled to the internet, and to me he represents this whole part of the world.”

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